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To the Manner Born – Birth of a Global Nomad

Many young men dream of adventure. Of faraway lands and exotic cities with ancient names. I did not. I dreamt of normalcy. The normalcy that comes from being rooted in a location; of a sense of belonging derived from permanent residence in one specific location on this globe. This residency need not possess ancient origins. A few generations whose sense of place was defined by a small town or even a city was, I thought as a young man, a concept of great significance. Its significance was most noticeable in my life in its absence.

I was raised much more transiently. A careful calculation finds that I attended no less than six different schools in at least as many cities between the time that I entered kindergarten and my last year of secondary school. I became accustomed to introducing myself at the start of the school year. I learned how to make new friends and how to leave old ones behind. I learned that certain customs and traditions transcend location. Playground rituals that are deemed unique and inventive by those who have never moved are often rather ubiquitous.

I took solace in the fact that each move gave me a chance to reinvent myself, to design a new persona that I would try on like a new coat at the start of the year. Inevitably, I would shed it before the trees shed their fall leaves. I did not realize then, as I do now, that our personalities are more fixed than that.

I dreamed of a tree house. Having read about them in books, I imagined that children who didn’t move all possessed one. I dreamed of the day when I would stop moving and . . . .

We moved for the final time at the end of my tenth grade year. I entered eleventh grade with excitement. Finally, I could put down roots and begin cultivating lifelong friendships. Two incidents stick out in my mind from the first days in this new home that assured I would not find the idyllic home that I was looking for.

First, I heard one of my eleventh grade classmates teased about something that had happened nine years earlier. The fact that two people had gone to school together for over nine years completely foreign to me. That fact that he was still being teased about it also seemed very pointless to me.

Second, I began to attend German class. Each student was required to study a second language. I chose German since I had studied it for two years while living there. Each day in class that first week, my peers would correct my pronunciation.

“That’s not how they say it in Germany,” they would tell me. Having lived in Frankfurt for the previous two years, I assured them that it was, in fact, how a German would say it. The benefit of hindsight has helped me to realize that they had assumed the accent and dialect of our teacher, who was from Berlin while I spoke as my Frankfurter teacher had taught me.

Although I would not graduate for another twenty-one months, in my mind I began to leave town that week. I chose a profession that ensured me of opportunities to travel, and I set about re-establishing a nomadic lifestyle. As Hamlet would say, I am “to the manner born.”

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How to Travel with Kids – Expectation Management

[excerpt from the book Travel With Kids]

My wife and I love to travel. When we had kids, we discovered a prevailing wisdom that was very common in American society. Travel, especially world travel involving trains, tuk tuks, and other means, was not for kids. Once you had kids, your traveling days were over until the kids moved out again. This was unacceptable to us, so we kept traveling. Along the way, I’ve discovered the secret to how to travel with kids.

Parents, sorry but this is not a huge secret. It’s two words – expectation management. In today’s post, I discuss a few elements of expectation management including:

  • Dealing with short attention spans
  • Experiencing nightlife while traveling with kids
  • Food issues – what to do when your kids refuse to eat on a trip
  • Adding kid friendly events to the itinerary

travel with kids

Squirrel! How to Deal with Shorter Attention Spans

Maybe this is the trip of a lifetime for you. Maybe you’ve been waiting for years to see this building in person, or to visit this city. Hopping on a flight did not radically transform your children. Whatever attention span your kids have at home is the attention span they brought with them on the trip. Keep that in mind.

When my children were younger, I was convinced that a fruit fly had a greater attention span. Growing up in the digital age, they are masters of multitasking. At least that’s what their generation tells themselves. In reality, they are masters of being distracted repeatedly. This can be very frustrating when traveling if you allow it to be. We chose to capitalize on it.

When we took our kids to Paris, we wanted them to see the Louvre. It’s possible to spend hours or even days in that magnificent museum, strolling through the galleries and admiring the masterpieces that stretch all the way up to the vaulted ceilings. It is not possible, however, with an eight-year-old. Set your goals a little lower and you’ll find it leads to greater satisfaction for the whole family.

We made a quick list of the top 10 to 20 works to see in the Louvre. The big ones, so to speak. Then we blew through the museum and covered them all with a generous helping of breaks and snacks along the way. They can always go back to Paris later, or look it up online and learn more. It will be more real to them because they’ve seen it in person.

Did our trip turn my kids into experts in the intricacies of the Renaissance movement? Not even close. But they do remember seeing the Winged Victory of Samothrace. They can identify statues of Greek gods by their accessories (winged feet, snake staff). And they don’t hate museums, which can be a side effect of dragging hours on end looking at the works of Dutch masters.

One Night in Bangkok: Nightlife and Travel with Kids

If you’ve taken a family vacation before, in the U.S. or abroad, this caveat should not come as a surprise. Don’t expect to hit the full moon parties on the beaches of Southern Thailand with kids in tow. Much like when you are home, your ability to enjoy the nightlife while traveling will depend to a large extent on the age of your children, your comfort level with leaving them in the care of sitters, and your desire to party like you’re twenty-five again.

Keep the local culture in mind as well. If your kids are young, you’re probably looking to hit a restaurant and be back at the hotel before 7 p.m. If you’re in Spain, however, you may find that the restaurants don’t open for dinner before 7 p.m. So what do you do? As always, you live like the locals. Settle in for a nap in the afternoon and take the kids to dinner later.

Sometimes you want an evening without kids. On a short trip of a week or less, you may not feel this urge. The longer the trip, the more it will seem like a good idea. If you’re staying at a decent hotel (i.e. an expensive one,) the concierge should be able to provide a list of babysitters or arrange for one for you. If not, try searching the local expat websites for suggestions.

Food Fights: It’s Okay to Eat McDonald’s

We don’t eat much fast food as a family. That changed when we went to Japan. My son was four years old at the time. We ate at McDonald’s every third day, just to make sure that he actually ate because he was not a fan of trying new foods. Then we left Tokyo. On our way to a remote ryokan near Mount Fuji, I tried to prepare him for the tragedy that was to come.

“Listen,” I explained. “There won’t be a McDonald’s near the new hotel. So you have to eat whatever we order, ok?”

He nodded his little head soberly. He had the last laugh, though. After two trains and a bus, we pulled up to a rural bus station. Perched in the corner window of the building were the familiar golden arches. “See, dad,” he said smiling. “There’s nothing to worry about.”

When I travel with kids, food is an area where I am willing to compromise up to a point. Put yourself in their shoes. They’ve been pulled away from everything they know as familiar. There are strange sounds, strange smells, and signs in languages that they can’t read. Suddenly, they see a familiar trademark sign above an American franchise. Indulge them. Up to a point, that is. After all, travel is partly about getting out of your comfort zone. My suggestion is to take a two-pronged approach.

The first prong is to agree in advance when you will, collectively as a family, try new foods. Doing this in advance is very important. Springing congee on a kid at 7:00 a.m. when he has his heart set on waffles (for the third day in a row) is a recipe for disaster. If it’s breakfast, discuss it the night before. If it’s dinner, mention it in the afternoon.

The second prong is to give in. Order the fast food from time to time. But while you’re giving in, make it a learning experience. Talk about how the food is different than it is in America. I don’t just mean ordering a Royale with Cheese instead of a Quarterpounder. Spend some time looking at the menu in the restaurant. Ask your kids how the menu is different from the one that they’re used to. All of the McDonald’s restaurants in Malaysia, for example, are certified halal. Ask them why that might be.

You never know what will stick either. To this day, one of my kids loves sushi from our time in Japan eight years ago. He liked his chopsticks so much that he started using them to eat his breakfast cereal when we got home from Japan. Now he’s the most adept chopstick-er in the whole family.

Playgrounds and Beaches: Adding Kid Stuff to the Itinerary

It can’t all be museums. When you travel with kids, get them involved by letting them pick some of the attractions that you’ll visit.  They’re likely to pick the beach or the zoo. Maybe even a movie. Much like the fast food, going to the movie theater in another country can be an educational experience as well. How do the ticket prices compare to those back home? What about the commercials they show before the movie? Do they have subtitles? Are the snacks different at the concession stand? We’ve noticed that movies are even edited for content when shown in more conservative countries.

Going to  a playground or park can be a great way to let kids run off some energy. They might meet local kids and learn a new game or two.

Also check out my other tips on how to travel with kids, including tips about culture shock and how to pack.

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Bangkok Canal Tour (Khlong Tour) with Kids

Bangkok was once known as the Venice of the East because of all the canals (khlongs). Most of the canals east of the river have been filled in to make roads. On the west side of the river though, Thonburi’s old canals are easily accessible and offer a relaxing day of exploring old Bangkok. Even kids will get a kick out of a Bangkok canal tour.

Canal tours are a big tourist draw, and you can easily hire a longtail boat at Sathorn pier. It will be noisy and smell like fuel, and you likely won’t get an English speaking guide. Instead, we hired Pandan Tour, which we heard about on Travelfish (read more about Travelfish here). The tour was terrific, our guide was excellent, and we got to see a lot more at a slower pace. I can’t recommend it enough.

Bangkok canal tour
A floating market

Bangkok Canal Tour Highlights

Most tours will include some combination of these highlights:

  • Artist House
  • Temples
  • Orchid Nursery
  • Floating Market

Ours included two temples, one right next to the river and a more rural one out in the forest. It also included tasty snacks like miang kham and lunch from the floating market. My kids loved it.

Miang kham
Miang kham, a traditional Thai snack
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Family Travel – How to Get Passports for Children

Passports for children

Most countries now require children to have their own passport. Today I’m going to discuss the process for getting passports for children so the family can travel abroad. I should start by noting that all countries have their own requirements and I’m focusing on U.S. travelers only. For others, here are a few links to the info pages for citizens of other countries.

Age restrictions and fees

The U.S. State Department issues passports. Passports for people who are 16 and older are valid for 10 years. For those under 16, though, passports are only valid for 5 years.

On the bright side, passports for children cost less than those for adults. The fee for a child’s passport is $105, while a first-time adult application is $135.

Passports for childrenProcessing Time

It’s important to plan ahead. The typical processing time to receive passports for children is 6 weeks. Expedited processing, which costs extra, can still take 2-3 weeks.

Requirements

Children’s passports must be applied for:

  • in person
  • with proof of consent by both parents (easiest by having both present)
  • using a form DS-11
  • with proof of U.S. citizenship of the child (i.e. birth certificate)
  • with proof of relationship of parents to child (i.e. birth certificate)

If the child already has a passport and you are renewing, bring the old passport when you apply. You can look up where to apply in person using this State Department site. You will frequently need to make an appointment in advance.

The best place to start the process is at the State Department website, which covers all of the requirements and has detailed answers to FAQ.

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Sri Lankan Overnight Train

My wife told me recently that she loves all the trips that I’ve planned. “Even the Sri Lankan overnight train?”

“Yes, even that one,” she says with a laugh. It’s an inside joke because that was definitely an experience. Our trip to Sri Lanka began and ended at the international airport in Colombo. To get there from our beach stay in Trincomalee, however, we had decided to take an overnight train.

Trincomalee train station

We felt like we have a good idea what to expect because I had researched Sri Lankan trains on the Man in Seat 61 website (I wrote about that in a previous post). I booked two adjoining compartments in a Night Mail 1st Class car. So my first tip is to make sure you know what you’re getting into. It’s not Eurail, but it will get you where you need to go on time.

We had pre-ordered our tickets and picked them up while driving from Colombo to Yala. We used a company listed on the Seat61 site and had no issues. Our taxi dropped us off at the Trincomalee Rail Station with about 45 minutes until the train departed. I had a brief panic attack when the station attendant said my tickets were for the next day, but he just misread the date. My second tip is to double check your tickets. There’s a small restaurant at the station to buy snacks. Then just climb aboard and wait for the train to pull out. Ours departed at 7 p.m.

Sri Lankan overnight train
The train car hallway was old but clean.

You won’t see much landscape since it will be close to nightfall. Get some sleep instead. The sleeper berths cost $10 each, compared with $3 for the third class seats and $5 for the second class seats. Considering that the berths are the only lie-flat option on an overnight train, I recommend splurging. The sheets on the bunks are clean but old, so manage expectations accordingly. Our biggest mistake was leaving our snacks out overnight and finding what was left covered in ants and roaches in the morning. Not a pleasant discovery, but not exactly the train company’s fault either.

Sri Lankan overnight train berth

The train pulls into Colombo Fort station at 3:30 am. We actually felt less safe on the 40 minute tuk-tuk ride from Fort station to the airport. Some drivers will try to direct you to their tuk-tuks. Use the ones parked in the train station parking lot instead of the ones curbside.

We made it to the airport with plenty of time and enjoyed our overnight train ride.

If you go

  • Use Seat61 to research the train schedule
  • Keep your belongings with you
  • Eat your food or pack it to keep critters out
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Best Travel Podcasts

Sometimes, you can’t travel. Budgets and life do occasionally get in the way of that. When that happens, you can live vicariously through the travel of others. This week I’m going to give you three of the best travel podcasts to listen to. These are the ones that I listen to when I’m not traveling.

Extra Pack of Peanuts with Travis Sherry

Travis Sherry’s podcast is consistently one of the top rated podcast on iTunes. Each week is different. Sometimes he has interviews with fellow digital nomads who’ve found a way to travel as their work. Sometimes he and his wife Heather count down “best” lists; best coffee joints, best hotels. Other weeks, he’ll focus on a particular destination like Georgia and give detailed information. The tone is very conversational and Travis is fun to listen to.

Zero to Travel podcast with Jason Moore

It’s not surprising that Jason Moore competes with the Extra Pack of Peanuts for top spot on the iTunes travel podcast list. Frequently one of them is #1 and the other is #2. Jason is a fellow digital nomad. His podcast tends to feature more interviews with other nomads, like recent interviews with a river rafting guide Juniper Rose and alternative education specialist Blake Boles. It’s not unusual for Jason’s podcast to feature Travis and vice versa, since these real life friends also collaborate on a third podcast together, Location Indie.

Condé Nast Traveler Travelogue

This podcast brings together travel writers and editors each week to talk in depth about destinations. Each one brings experience as someone who travels for work and writes about it.  This ensemble cast of seasoned travelers has great chemistry together.

For me, those are the best travel podcasts. Each of these podcasts is in “long form.” That is to say, each one lasts 30 minutes to an hour. Perfect for listening to on a jog or commute.

 

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A Trip to Trincomalee Beach in Sri Lanka

This is the second part of a three part series about our adventures in Sri Lanka. You can read about our safari in Yala National Park here. After Yala, we headed north to Trincomalee for a beach break. The best time to visit Trincomalee is from May to August, when the southwest monsoon makes beaches in Galle unpleasant. Avoid Trincomalee in October to January because of the northeast monsoon.

The Drive to Trincomalee

For about the 20th time that day, I thought I was going to die as an oncoming bus hurtled towards us in the wrong lane. One thing I’ll say for driving in Sri Lanka is that no one texts and drives. I’m guessing those who did are all dead. The driving situation requires constant attention as your vehicle weaves in and out of the correct lane, competing with buses, tuk-tuks, bicycles, pedestrians, and cattle.

Our driver insisted he knew where he was going despite asking for directions from every third person once we were in the city limits. Finally, two hours later than we thought, we pulled into the hotel in Trincomalee, which is often abbreviated as Trinco.

Trincomalee Cinnamon hotel

Lodging in Trinco

There are lots of beach front options for a place to lay your head. We picked Cinnamon Trinco, which has beachfront rooms and a good buffet.

Snorkeling at Pigeon Island

For our snorkeling trip in Trinco, we met up with our tour guide at 7:30. There was another couple there in their late 20s from Washington, DC. We got fins and walked to the boat. The locals were fishing using a long net that they dragged in the water. It reminded me of the hukilau in Hawaii.

Our boat paused in front of a temple at the mouth of the river to pray for safe passage before heading out to sea. It took about 30 minutes to get to Pigeon Island. We had to stop along the way at Nilaveli to pay the park fee. That was accomplished by one of our guides wading through waist-deep water to the shore holding our cash above his head. He came back with a park guide and a receipt.

If you go to Pigeon Island, go early in the morning. We were the first boat to get to the island. There’s a Do Not Enter area marked off with buoys. That’s where the coral that’s still alive is. Your guide will swim with your around the edges of that area so you can see it. The coral outside that area is mostly dead. We saw lots of small fish and even a black tipped reef shark. Our guide seemed determined to chase the reef shark until all of us saw it. After about 45 minutes of snorkeling, we came back to shore. The beach was lined with boats by that time and the beach was crowded with tourists.

We switched to the other side of the island – the back side, and went snorkeling again. After a few hours we headed back to the hotel with the obligatory stop to pray at the temple.

The hotel had two of the best restaurants in town. My favorite was the hoppers that we had for breakfast.

If you go

Stay at: Cinnamon Trinco

Take the train back to Colombo: The Man in Seat 61.

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International Train Travel

When you step onto a train, time slows down. Things are more relaxed. The constant clack-clack of the wheels on the rails lulls you to sleep at night. The countryside slips by steadily and you wake up refreshed at your destination. That’s how international train travel can be. But finding the info on trains is difficult. That’s where Seat61.com comes in.

The Man in Seat 61 was started as a hobby by Mark Smith, a British railwayman. His fantastic site has the info on how to travel by train in over 100 countries. You can travel from London to Cambodia by train, for example, or from Cape Town, South Africa to Mwanza, Tanzania.

I’ve used this site extensively and I’m a big fan. I’ve taken the Eurostar from London to Paris. I’ve done quick trips in South Korea and the United States and overnight trains across Thailand and Sri Lanka.

international train travel
Thai train ticket from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.

What’s the best train trip you’ve taken?

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Sri Lanka Safari – Yala National Park

“Sri Lanka safari.” This phrase is confusing to some, who associate the word safari exclusively with the African continent. To those in the know, however, Sri Lanka offers an incredibly rich safari experience. Poised like a tear drop southeast of India, Sri Lanka is a jewel of biodiversity. In size, Sri Lanka is slightly larger than West Virginia. It has been recognized by Conservation International as one of 25 biodiverse hotspots on the planet. Going on safari there is one of the top tourist activities.

Sri Lanka Safari – The “Big Four”

African safaris often tout the “Big Five” – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and Cape buffalo. Sri Lanka has its own “Big Four” – leopard, elephant, sloth bear, and wild water buffalo. The nocturnal leopard is the most elusive of these creatures, and Yala National Park has the highest concentration of this beautiful creature. So we flew into the capital of Colombo and spent six hours driving to reach our rustic accommodations outside the main entrance to Yala National Park.

Accommodations

Back of beyond KirindaRustic is the perfect description. There are luxury safari camps and hotels near Yala, like the one owned by Cinnamon, Sri Lanka’s domestic air carrier. Instead, we chose an open-air cabin called Back of Beyond that was listed on AirBnB. We knew we were in a remote location when our driver turned off the dirt road onto a smaller dirt road to get to our cabin. The fishing village at the end of the dirt road consisted of 3-4 shacks on the beach. The herds of water buffalo crossing the road slowed us down. We had to coax a frog out of the toilet several times. The first night, my imagination ran wild when I woke up at 2 a.m. to hear what I thought were elephants wandering through the cabin’s front yard. Since the only thing between me and the elements was a mosquito net, I was relieved the next morning to discover it had just been cows. We did come back to the cabin one evening to find that langur monkeys had taken over our dining room. Despite all of this (or perhaps because of it), my kids loved this place. The food prepared by the cabin staff was the best food we ate in Sri Lanka.

In Search of Leopards

Our Sri Lanka safari kicked off at 5:30 in the morning when our jeep picked us up. It wasn’t a jeep, of course, but a Toyota Hilux modified with stadium seats welded into the truck bed. Our AirBnB host, Dewan, had packed breakfast for us – shredded chicken sandwiches and bananas. We drove all the way to the entrance to Yala National Park. We picked up a guide named Gayon from the park. He was part guide, part park ranger. All safaris have to have a park ranger onboard.

Sri Lanka safari elephantMost safaris are either morning or evening since the animals are less active in the sweltering midday heat. A couple of quick hits gave us early successes, as we saw a crocodile and some birds. Boars, buffalo, monkeys and elephants all wandered past us on their way to watering holes for breakfast. But what everyone comes to see is the leopard.

We played leopard tag with about 20 other safari vehicles for about an hour. I think we were all chasing the same cat as it moved from one open field to another. At one point I lost my hat during a high speed run down the dirt road. My sons enjoyed the high speed chases but I was sure that this top-heavy Hilux would topple over on one of the hairpin turns. Finally we told our guide to quit chasing the leopard and we went off to more remote parts of the park to look for other animals. We ate lunch and went swimming in the river, a hundred yards downstream from a massive water buffalo cooling off in the muddy water.

After lunch, we came back later around noon and found a leopard. The undisputed king of the Sri Lankan wilderness strolled across an open field next to our vehicle. We collectively held our breath and snapped picture after picture. I’d like to think the safari would have been worth it even if we didn’t see a leopard but I’m glad we did.

Sri Lanka safari leopard
Photo credit: Ellyn Cox

Sri Lanka Safari – If You Go

Fly to: Colombo International Airport (CMB)

Stay at Back of Beyond, Kirinda (rustic) or Cinnamon Wild Yala (luxury)

Safari with: Shehan Safari

All travel involves risk and travelers are advised to make their own inquiries and investigations before contracting with any organizations listed. For more information, check out our Terms of Service.

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Travelfish – Best Southeast Asia Travel site

The best site I’ve found for planning Southeast Asia travel is Travelfish. Samantha Brown and Stuart McDonald created Travelfish in 2004. Their vision for creating a guide to remote destinations now includes detailed itineraries, a members’ forum, and PDF guides that you can download. This is my first stop when planning Southeast Asia travel, and it should be yours too. If we’re using ASEAN as our definition, then they’re missing the Philippines and Brunei. Trust me though, there’s enough here to keep you busy.

Southeast Asia travel - Angkor WatAdvantages of Travelfish

  • Off-the-beaten path destinations. Yes, it covers Angkor Wat. But it also covers Kamphaeng Phet and other more remote Southeast Asia travel destinations.
  • Personal experience. If a place is on the site, it means that one of their writers went there and checked it out.
  • “No freebies.” Travelfish writers don’t get free meals or hotel rooms for their reviews.
  • Premium membership ($35 Australian dollars) gives you access to all of their PDF travel guides – 174 and counting.

Southeast Asia Travel Covers

  • Thailand
  • Burma
  • Malaysia
  • Singapore
  • Indonesia
  • Cambodia
  • Laos
  • Vietnam

I will say that this site is best for people who want to get out and explore. If your travel style is more of the hit-the-highlights, five-star-hotel kind, you probably want a different website. But if you’re up for an adventure, this is the place to start your planning. Of course they’re on the usual social media sites, like Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.