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In Defense of Walking

I turned down a ride for the third time that day. I appreciated the offer, I truly did. But having walked five and a half of the six miles that I had planned for that day, I was determined to finish on foot.

For the first time in 20 years, I don’t own a car. I’m in transit between my last house and my next house, and it seemed easier to go without than to deal with shipping the car. All day long, I find myself checking my front pocket and wondering where I left my keys. Their absence sets off an initial panic until I remember the reason for it. It’s like a ghost sensation.

This experience has given me a new appreciation for the ease that my automobile brought to my life. A quick run down to the grocery store is now a 40 minute walk. Both ways. I calculate how much I can purchase not by how much cash I have but on how much weight I can carry. Some roads are less pedestrian friendly than others. Walking on the shoulder of the road when necessary, I’m reminded how small I am and big those semi trucks are.

Still, there are advantages. I am forced to slow down and take in the scenery. I can wander down trails that look interesting to me. I’ve found shortcuts and local parks that I didn’t know existed. Without my car radio blaring, I’m left with my own thoughts and the sounds of the birds around me.

I’m sure that I’ll enjoy the freedom that wheels bring once I get another car. Until then, I’m grateful for my feet and for the trail in front of me.

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Taft Historic Site

America’s 27th President was a large presence in Cincinnati, Ohio. It would be hard for him not to be – he weighed in at over 300 pounds. William Howard Taft is notable for being America’s most obese President. Towards the end of his Presidential term, he weighed around 335 pounds. His large size made him the target of jokes even in college, but we won’t comment on it anymore here. What we will discuss, however, is the tradition of public service that was part of the Taft family legacy in Cincinnati. This tradition is a major part of the story being told at the William Howard Taft National Historic Site, part of the National Park Service.

The family home on Auburn Avenue is three stories and fairly spacious. It had to be, since there were up to fourteen people living there at times. William was one of six children, and his grandparents lived in the home as well. They also had four servants living under the Taft roof.

William’s father, Alphonso Taft, served his country as a diplomat, as Secretary of War and as U.S. Attorney General. If you visit the Taft Historic Site, you’ll learn about the Taft family’s contributions to civic society at city, state, and national levels. William famously became the Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court following his term as President. Tafts have served as Congressmen, Governor, Ambassadors, and have held numerous positions on charitable boards in Cincinnati and throughout the country.

Ohio is known as the birthplace of Presidents. If you’re in the Cincinnati area, you should stop by the Taft Historic Site to see the actual birthplace of one of those Presidents. And be inspired by his family’s legacy of seeking opportunities to give back to their community.

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American Sign Museum

I’ll admit it, I didn’t really know anything about Cincinnati before I drove there on a whim last Saturday afternoon. I knew that it had a baseball team. I also thought it was named after Cincinnatus. It is, but only indirectly, deriving its name from the Society of the Cincinnati. Other than that, I had no expectations. Then I stopped in the American Sign Museum and had a fabulous time.

This wall traces the history of signs in America.

Now, I’ll say up front that Cincinnati has a lot of sights to see. The zoo is world famous, there are art museums and national parks and more. I chose to spend my short time there at the American Sign Museum and I was not disappointed.

The collection demonstrates the history of signs in Amercan, from early trade signs and goldleaf signs of the early 1900s up to the neon age and the plastics used in the 1950s. There’s a free tour, which I recommend. Our tour guide was a volunteer who is studying graphic design. She gave descriptions of each type of sign and pointed out subtle differences that denoted innovations and technological advances.

Main Street at the American Sign Museum.

The finale of the tour is a re-created American main street. This was a very cool place to stop. Big hat tip to Atlas Obscura, which is where I heard about it.

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Ordinary Traveler – Courtney

This week’s ordinary traveler is a friend and fellow blogger. Courtney lives in upstate New York. She writes about tea at illbemother221btalkstea.wordpress.com. She writes about everything else at galinthegreyhat.com.
1. What makes you want to travel? The chance to see new places is always a huge draw for me. Traveling abroad usually means new customs, foods, etc. and that is always exciting to me. While traveling in the U.S. allows me to see the history and to some extent new customs and foods too.
2. How do you afford to travel? My husband and I typically try to save up for a trip every other year somewhere big. Two years ago, we went to Ireland. Thanks to our tax return and a work bonus, we were able to make it happen without breaking the bank. There have been times where family will offer to let us stay with them so all we’ll need to buy is the plane ticket and make dinner while we’re there. Plus Southwest always has good fares.
3. Do you prefer to travel alone or in a group? Group travel can be difficult. Last fall we went to Disney World. It was my first time – which meant everyone wanted me to see everything, while I just wanted to wander and see what I could see. So that was tough. I do like tours when traveling abroad because the tour tends to include a lot of entrance fees for museums and the like. But when we were in Ireland, we drove ourselves. I think we were able to meet more of the locals because we weren’t with a tour group.
4. What is the most memorable experience you’ve had and why? There have been two . . . and they were the two most recent trips. Disney World because I had never been. I loved experiencing it with my husband AND I got to meet Minnie Mouse which was the BEST part of the trip for the 5 year old in me. Ireland was amazing and full of history. Plus my family and my husband’s family come from Ireland so in a way it felt like going home.
5. What has been your favorite destination and why? Besides the two above? I LOVED the UK! But I’m a history nerd and let’s face it there is a whole lot of history to take in there.
6. Where have you been that you’d like to live for at least a year? I’m torn between London and the west coast of Ireland. Seeing as I haven’t been to London in many years I think I’d have go with that.
7. What’s the one thing that you have to bring home as a souvenir? Tea!
8. What’s the strangest custom that you’ve seen or experienced? I don’t know that it’s so much a custom. But in Ireland and the UK we were always asked “what time you wanted to be knocked up”. It took me a moment to realize they were asking for the wake up call time!
9. What do you always pack? Beyond the essential items. I always take my grey hat with me because of my blog and also because sometimes you need to cover up a bad hair day no matter where you are!
10. What’s the best travel advice you’ve learned? Pack your suite case then take out half of what you packed for clothing. So true and it’s saved me space to bring things back.
11. Where are you going on your next trip? My next trip is to Bethesda, Maryland for a Sherlock Holmes convention. So not vacation, but it is time away for something I enjoy so I think it counts!
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Ordinary Traveler – Michelle

This week’s ordinary traveler series features an old friend of mine. Michelle Lavicka is the co-owner of Mountain Top Pilates in Morgantown, West Virginia.
1. What makes you want to travel?  I have an incurable form of wanderlust. Every time I cross something off my list, I find two or three things to add . . . My husband doesn’t help–he is always coming across cool places or events or activities for us to see or do first-hand. Whenever we meet people on our travels, we always learn about “one more place” we need to see. The world is incredible and I want to see all of it!
Michelle in Australia

2. How do you afford to travel?  Travel is, by far, our biggest expense–more than our mortgage, food, and everything else combined! It helps we don’t have debt (aside from the house). But otherwise, we collect miles/points aggressively. We know that, since we only have the one life, we might as well go for it. We have never regretted money spent on a trip which, I would say, means it’s been well-spent.

3. Do you prefer to travel alone or in a group?  We prefer alone so we can make our own itinerary and see exactly what we want. That said, while we usually aim to be on our own, some activities have to be group (Korea’s DMZ comes to mind). As a result, we’ve had memorable group trips where we met wonderful people and had a lot of fun.

4.  What is the most memorable experience you’ve had and why? Oh, man. Just one? My husband would say hot air ballooning over Bagan, Burma (I know this to be ready for a game show if we are ever on one). Mine changes. Am I allowed to do a list?

  • Most memorable animal experience: seeing penguins for the first time when we were in Southern Patagonia.
  • Most memorable food experience? Eating at every restaurant at the Burj al Arab
  • Most memorable family experience? Sand sledding with Jeff and my parents in New Zealand
  • Most memorable grateful experience? Crossing the border out of Belarus.
  • Most memorable “I wish I could live here” experience? Our safaris in South Africa.
  • Most memorable street experience? Eating our way through Bangkok
  • Most memorable “I can die happy” experience? Riding camels through the Gobi.

I could go on, you get the idea

Sizing up the Sphinx in Egypt.
5. What has been your favorite destination and why?  I love South Africa. It has everything: animals, culture, beauty, history, incredible food . . . I can’t wait to go back.

 

6.  Where have you been that you’d like to live for at least a year?

South Africa for sure. New Zealand, too. Iceland. Saigon. Melbourne. I could live in Little Washington for a year, but only if I got to garden and work in the kitchen. Oh, and Punte del Este in Uruguay–that place is a gem.

Michelle and Jeff in Antarctica

7. What’s the one thing that you have to bring home as a souvenir?Photos.

Exploring Greece
8. What’s the strangest custom that you’ve seen or experienced?
You know, after awhile, nothing seems that strange anymore since you end up seeing it, or something similar, in more than one place. So, instead of strange, it’s just a “Oh! Right, they do that in . . .” type of thing that sends us down memory lane. That said, the tea in Mongolia was a bit tough to drink, but I don’t know if it’s strange.

 

9. What do you always pack? Camera, extra batteries, electrical converter, laptop, underpants. Beyond that, if it can’t fit into my carryon, it’s not coming. Jeff and I have a very light packing credo.

Scuba diving the continental divide in Iceland
10. What’s the best travel advice you’ve learned?  Be polite.
11.  Where are you going on your next trip?  Our next trip is home to my parents. Our next adventure is, hopefully, to finish off Southern Asia.
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Unfinished Business – Oahu

You can spend a lifetime somewhere and not really see it. In our case, we spent three years on Oahu and didn’t get to everything. Some would say we didn’t make it a priority. Others would say we were leaving things to do next time. Either way, here are a few things that we didn’t get to.

‘Iolani Palace – the only royal palace within the United States, ‘Iolani palace was home to King David Kalakaua and Queen Lili’uokalani. Built in 1879, this opulent building served as the official residence for the Hawaiian monarchy until it was overthrown in 1893. It also served as the state capitol building. For the last four decades, it has been a museum.

Eat the Street – Street food in Hawaii! Eat the Street has been held monthly since 2011 and features foods by local vendors.

Polynesian Cultural Center – Maybe it’s the long drive to Laie. Maybe it’s the thought of a sober luau. Regardless, we haven’t made it there yet. The Polynesian Cultural Center is run by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. Many of the staff are students at the neighboring Hawaii campus of Brigham Young University. Within the 42 acres of this Polynesian theme park are several villages. Each village highlights the architecture, music, and culture of a Polynesian culture such as Samoa, Tahiti, and Tonga.

Koko Head Crater – A lot of stairs. Koko Head is famous for the views from the top. But there are over a thousand steps on the way up, and that’s too many for me. If you go, go early before the heat gets too bad.

Surf on Waikiki Beach – Over four million tourists visit Oahu each year. Most of them stay on Waikiki. I can’t blame them, it is a great beach. So nice that it used to be reserved for Hawaiian royalty. But I’ve learned what lots of locals already know – it’s not the only nice beach on the island. We go to the beach all the time. Some beaches have turtles, some are good for snorkeling, and some are good for just laying around. So far we’ve managed to have our island life without the crowds of Waikiki.

Maybe we’ll hit a few of these before we leave. Maybe we’ll leave them for another time. If you have a favorite, or a regret about one you missed, leave a comment.

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Ordinary Traveler – Molly

Anyone can travel, and everyone should. That’s one of the main reasons for this blog, to share the richness of experience gained by traveling and seeing cultures other than your own. So I’ve instituted a segment called the ordinary traveler series. I interview people who’ve travelled and are willing to share some of their experiences. These aren’t trust-funded global trotters. These are ordinary folks who’ve decided to live extraordinary lives. My sister-in-law, Molly, was gracious enough to kick off this series. Without further ado – Molly.

What makes you want to travel?  I like the adventure.  I like to see new places and have new experiences.  Traveling has opened my eyes to new cultures. Travel has allowed me to test my independence, and to rely on others.

How do you afford to travel?  I used to rely on my tax refund for travel purposes.  For the past few years, my refund hasn’t been much, so I’ve been using my savings.  I try to travel without spending too much money.  I stay with friends, in hostels, or camp.  I look for the free days to go to museums and other places that have entrance fees.  I take public transportation as often as I can. I also do local travels, like riding my bicycle down the Pacific Coast or backpacking in the High Sierra.

Do you prefer travel alone or with a group?  Both.  I like to be on my own because I don’t have to worry about anyone’s happiness or satisfaction but my own.  I am on my own schedule, and if I want to stay at the beach all day, I will.  Or if I want to go to 5 museums and 4 churches in Paris in one day (Hey! It was free museum day!) I will.  With groups, I love the bonding time; the inside jokes.  I love having people to reminisce with about the trips we’ve taken.  It can be a time to process life with others and share adventures. I’ve had the privilege of traveling with people who have become my best friends, and I’ve been able to grow closer to members of my family through shared adventures.

What is the most memorable experience you have had and why? My most memorable experience was my bicycle trip from Oregon to Minnesota.  It was something that was slightly spur of the moment.  It was a trip where I doubted my abilities.  I was with 4 strangers, and found a best friend.  I laughed with new friends, was inspired by my group members, and cried when I finally pedaled out of Montana and into North Dakota.  I climbed mountains, battled headwinds, and peed on the side of the road more often than in a bathroom in the month of June!  The best part was surprising  my parents.  I showed up at their door unannounced after 35 days on a bicycle.

The end of the trail – Oregon to Minnesota by bike.

What has been your favorite destination and why?  Gosh.  That’s a hard one.  One of my favorites was France.  I was a nanny there one summer.  The family I worked for had three homes–one in Paris, Chamonix, and Villefranche (near Nice).  Even though I was working, I was able to see three beautiful parts of France. I explored each area thoroughly and ate enough croissants to consider myself a snob.

Where have you been that you’d like to live for at least a year? Xela, Guatemala.  I went there one summer for Spanish Language School.   It was a place that was very different for me and I didn’t speak any Spanish when I arrived.  I want to go back for a longer time to learn more Spanish, and to live in a place that is so different from where I live now.

What’s one thing that you have to bring home as a souvenir? When I travel to foreign countries, I like to buy children’s books.  I look for ones that have illustrations which I feel drawn to.  When I’m on my bicycle, I buy stickers of the places I pass through for my water bottles or panniers.

What is the strangest custom that you’ve seen or experienced? I don’t really know if it’s strange, it’s just different.  When I was in Turkey, anytime I entered a shop I would be offered apple tea.  Most of the time, the offer of apple tea also led to conversation.

What to you always pack?  Plenty of underwear, comfortable shoes (usually my Chacos), my satchel, water bottle, book, and journal. Oh.  And my ATM card.  When I am on bike trips, I love my headband that also covers my ears.  It protects from cold breezes as well as sunburn!

Hiking the John Muir Trail.

What is the best travel advice you’ve learned? Don’t try to do too much.  Spending a few days in one place is much better than constantly moving to a new spot, especially in a foreign country.  When I was traveling in Europe, I spent multiple days in one place to get a better sense of the town and the culture.

Where are you going on your next trip? My next trip will by my 4th bicycle tour.  I’ll be with my best friend (from my trip to MN) and her family.  We’ll be riding in the San Juan Islands in Washington.

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Strange Fruits

Durian

These strange fruits are probably not coming to a grocery store near you. Unless you’re shopping at an Asian grocery store. One of many small surprises I’ve found while traveling is that even fruit is different in different parts of the world. This was something that I never considered as a kid, growing up with apples and oranges. Seedless grapes were considered a novelty.  But a Indonesian friend of mine had never heard of an apple until he visited America. To him, they were the weird and exotic fruits.

So below are  four fruits common to Southeast Asia but not to America. They are presented in order from least weird to weirdest, which is entirely subjective on my part.

No, not the bananas. The other fruit.

Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana) – Mangosteen is typically purple. It is also known as “the honest fruit,” because the number of points on the bottom of the shell corresponds to the number of fruit segments inside. The fruit sections are white and pulpy, with a taste both tangy and sweet.

Purple dragon fruit

Dragon fruit – Originally native to Mexico, dragon fruit is widely cultivated in Southeast Asia. The flesh is either red or white, and the taste is mild or bland. The black seeds are crunchy and edible. Overall, this fruit is visually appealing but not very tasty.

Known as snake fruit because of its scaly skin.

Salak – Salak is native to Indonesia. It’s also known as snake fruit, for what should be obvious reasons. The peel is not edible. The fruit is creamy white and comes in three sections shaped like garlic cloves. The taste is similar to strawberries, while the texture is similar to a walnut. Don’t eat the seed in the middle.

The King of Fruits

Durian – There are dozens of subspecies of durian, and they all smell. The smell is the first thing that you’ve probably heard about the “King of fruits,” assuming you’ve heard of it at all. Everything you’ve heard is true. It smells like rotten garbage. It smells unbelievably bad. So bad, in fact, that it’s banned in ritzy hotels and prohibited on public transit in places like Bangkok and Singapore.

In Singapore, there’s a $500 fine for not obeying posted signs.

If you can get past the smell (a very large if), the texture of the fruit is creamy like custard. I can’t describe the taste, because I’ve never made it past the gag reflex that I have from the odor. If you have, share with us in the comments.

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Legoland Malaysia

I remember Legos as a kid, but I don’t remember them being this big. Earlier this year, Brand Finance announced that Lego is the world’s most powerful brand. So I guess it’s kind of a big deal.

We went to Legoland Malaysia last year. It’s strategically placed in the state of Johor, close enough to Singapore to be a day trip. That’s what we did, taking public transit across the Tuas Second Link. I have to say, that park is awesome. Each park has rides designed to look like they’re made out of Lego bricks. The center of the park is called Miniland and features world landmarks in miniature made out of Legos. The detail is amazing!

There are six Legoland Amusement Parks around the world, so you don’t have to go to the one in Malaysia. But the distribution is largely Eurocentric, owing to Lego’s roots as a Danish company. There are European parks in Denmark, Germany and the UK. Two more are in the U.S. (California and Florida, of course). The seventh park is set to open in Dubai next year. There are two more planned for Asia, in South Korea and Japan, set to open in 2017 and 2021 respectively.

As an amusement park that caters to Westerners and rich locals, it’s not a cheap day out. But I did appreciate that there was not as much in your face marketing as I’ve seen at American amusement parks. Of course the food vendors were expensive and there was a store at the entrance to help you buy all the Legos that you want. But it still felt less commercial.

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Opal Thai

Ever been surfing and had a hankering for good Thai food? If you happen to be surfing on Oahu’s world-famous North Shore, you’re in luck. Head to Opal Thai in Haleiwa for some of the best Thai food I’ve ever had. And I’ve been to Thailand.

This local favorite has been featured on the Food Network twice, with good reason. Eating at Opal’s is an adventure. First, drive past the two or three other Thai places along Kam Highway. I don’t know why sleeping little Haleiwa has this many restaurants featuring Southeast Asian cuisine. Maybe it’s the connection between sunny North Shore and the fabled beaches of Thailand. Or maybe they’re trying to cash in on Opal’s fame.

After pulling into the parking lot in front of Longs Drugs. If you’re thirsty for something malted, pop into the drug store and get some beer because Opal Thai doesn’t serve alcohol. But they’ll be happy to keep it cold for you in the kitchen. They also don’t take credit cards, so bring cash.

The first thing that strikes you about the restaurant is the size. It’s small, maybe 10 tables. Eating here is a very cozy affair. The next thing you’ll notice is the owner/chef, Opel himself. He comes out to greet each table.

The first time we ate at Opal’s, I thought that I knew Thai food. He quickly dispelled that notion. “Really,” he said with an arched brow. “Name five Thai dishes.”

As I sputtered on my response, he came to my rescue. “Never mind,” he said. Spreading out his hand, he ticked off the questions. After asking which spices we liked (cilantro, onion, garlic) and which proteins (beef, chicken, pork, tofu, shrimp), he disappeared into the kitchen and dishes started appearing on our table. I couldn’t tell you what all of them were. I only know that they were delicious.

Some people don’t like this routine where the chef orders for you. If that’s you, then don’t come. I’ve never heard of someone ordering off the menu, which Opel takes out of your hands with a smile as he comes out to shake your hand.

But if you want a very satisfying meal and a good time, drive up to the North Shore. You won’t be disappointed. And take pictures of your food. Because when you come back six months later, Opel will remember you but he may not remember what he cooked for you last time. Judging from the line stretching out the door, I can’t really fault him for that.

Do you have a favorite Thai spot or a favorite North Shore spot? Let us know.