Author: Nomadic Dragon

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Tale of Two Ryokans

travel with kids

When my son was less than a year old, we found ourselves out on the street in Kyoto. We had checked into a ryokan, a  traditional Japanese guesthouse. Only after we arrived did we realize that the ryokan was not exactly kid-friendly, and they were not crazy about letting us stay the night. We had reservations for two nights. Showing up with a one year old and a four year old sparked a flurry of, “oh, so sorry, there was a misunderstanding with the reservation and we don’t allow kids.” We smiled, determined not to lose face. With much patience, and due to the late hour, we were allowed to stay one night.

The night ended at 4:30 in the morning, when my kids woke up. Jet lag affects us all. The guy next door didn’t appreciate the level of noise in a guesthouse with paper walls. So we quietly checked out and wandered the streets of Kyoto under a restaurant opened for breakfast. Good times.

We had a very different experience in the Mount Fuji area. The ryokan had an onsen and was definitely family-friendly. The owner/chef welcomed us with a huge grin. His wife and daughter doted on my two little blond boys. Our room had a view of Mount Fuji.

At the time I was frustrated with our experience in Kyoto. Looking back, I’m glad we had both ryokans to compare and contrast. What about you? Have you ever been kicked out of a hotel? Had a great experience at a ryokan? Let us know.

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Kamaile’unu Ridge Trail

I hadn’t ridden in the back of a pickup since I was a teenager. Yet there I was, one sunny afternoon, bracing against the wheel well and wondering just how long it would take to get to our destination. We nervously joked with each other about someone falling out though I’m sure the tailgate was quite secure.

We were staying in Waianae, so it was only a few minutes until we reached the trailhead at the end of Mai’u’u Road in Makaha. We slathered on sunscreen since it was already past noon, and then we hit the trail. Our goal? The top of Kamaile’unu Ridge.

It’s a steep drop, so watch your footing.

Oahu is blessed with dozens of hiking trails. If you haven’t wandered away from the beautiful beaches, then you’ve missed most of the island’s scenic views. I will say, however, that Kamaile’unu Ridge is not for the faint of heart. To begin with, the trailhead starts in Makaha. This is as far away from the tourist-laden streets of Waikiki as one can get. Drive west until the highway ends, then keep driving. Past the country club existence of Ko Olina. Past well-known sites like Electric Beach and Pokai Bay. Finally you’ll come to Mai’u’u Road. Then you’ll start climbing.

And climbing. This trail gains over 3,000 feet before you reach the end. Just follow the pink markers and you’ll have no trouble finding your way. I can’t promise you won’t have trouble catching your breath.

Terrific views of the beach off Makaha

In the end, we didn’t reach the summit. That would have taken six or seven hours. We only had four. But we climbed high enough to enjoy the views of Pokai Bay and the Makaha Valley. And we definitely got a workout.

If you like hiking on Oahu, you need to pick up Stuart Ball’s book The Hiker’s Guide to Oahu. This is the most comprehensive guide to the island’s trails, with detailed descriptions of routes and the scenery along the way.

What about you? What’s your favorite hike?

The long walk home
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The Regent Singapore – Museum Quality Library

Traditional caping, worn by young Bugis girls as a modesty piece.

Have you ever dreamed of spending a night in a museum? I mean, without Ben Stiller and the gang. The Regent Singapore is a pretty good substitute. The pieces that you see in the lobby are, in many cases, museum-quality artifacts.

I stumbled on a book called Treasures of the Regent Singapore in the hotel club lounge. This terrific book fills in the holes and gives details on the hotel’s collection, from textiles to jewelry to weapons.

Delicate craftsmanship revealed in these earrings.

The items on display call for a leisurely examination.

What about you? Ever staying in a museum? How about a hotel that feels like one?